Boating Safety
Keeping You Safe on the Water
This will not be the standard lecture about life jackets and alcohol. If you haven’t gotten those two items figured out yet it’s probably already too late for you!
As this section of the website grows, I will cover the more common boating safety situations that arise, but first I offer (3) basic safety tips that should be part of your personal seabag and that should accompany you every time you step on board your boat.
As many of my friends and regular visitors to this website know in addition to being a professional captain, I am also a pilot. What many don’t realize, is that while there is a lot that is different between the two; there is also much in common. I have been lucky enough to be able to take the best aspects of both and incorporate them into one.
In flying, from your first introductory flight in a Cessna 150 to your checkride in a Boeing 747, your instructors drill (2) important pieces of information into your head. "Situational Awareness" and "Aviate, Navigate, and Communicate". My father, who himself spent his life at sea, also taught me that one of the most important things to bring onboard any vessel is "Common Sense". So there you have it; my (3) answers to boating safety! We will go into them in more detail later.
Does boater education play a part? Of course, and always remember just like in sex -- "Lots is Good - More is Better". The more you have (we are talking about the education part now) the better boater you will be. Just remember that boater training and education is not a onetime thing, but an ongoing process. You should avail yourself of it any time you can and then put into practice what you have learned.
Most people would agree that there are (2) primary methods of learning; "Trial & Error" and "Study & Practice". While trial and error is a great method in learning how to ride a bike as a kid, not so much when flying or boating.
Working in the industry as I do, trial and error is not an option. I do not want to have to call "Mr. Smith" and inform him that while southbound with his 74’, $3.3M sport fisherman doing 35 knots in dense fog, I failed to allow for set and drift and just tore out the bottom of his boat on the jetty at Cold Spring Inlet.
Do you think that "Mr. Smith" will understand that it was a true learning experience for me? That I have gathered very important lessons about speed in fog and that I will apply those lessons learned to the operation of his next new boat! I just know in my heart that he will understand! The downside is, that it just doesn’t look good on your resume.
So, that leaves us with study and practice. Quite dull really, especially when compared with the trial & error type of learning, although somewhat safer and much less costly.
Boating Accidents
Accidents... Why they Happen!
Many accident experts think most accidents result from a "sequence" or "chain of events" of poor decision making and not any one single thing. The underlying rational is that if you break that chain by removing any one of these events, the accident is not likely to occur.
It goes without saying, that if you go out in a dense fog and cruise down the coast at 35 knots after you have been up drinking all night you’re an accident waiting to happen! According to the chain of events theory; removing any one of these elements from the sequence and you are likely to avoid the ICU at your local hospital.
Seems to me this makes a strong case for the exercising of "Common Sense".
Common Factors in Most Boating Accidents
While there are many factors that contribute to boating accidents, the USCG statistics for 2009 show the majority of these accidents share the same root issues: operator inattention, operator inexperience, excessive speed, improper lookout, and alcohol use. These top (5) accident factors accounted for almost 50% of all boating accidents during the same period.
Further, almost 76% of all boating fatalities occurred where the boat operator had no boating educational training or instruction.
So What Can I Do to Prevent a Boating Accident?
Ok, so lets get this out of the way now. "Get the education and training that you need in order to make the correct decisions afloat.
Alright, been there done that! What else is there?
Situational Awareness
Come on now, you had to know this was coming....
Situational awareness is "the perception of environmental elements within a volume of time and space, the comprehension of their meaning, and the projection of their status in the near future".
Huh? What he say?
In basic terms, it means being aware of everything that is going on around you and how it may affect the outcome of whatever it is you are doing or intend to do in the short term and including that information into your own planning and decision making process.
Now see... Didn’t that just clear up all of your boating safety questions?
No? Then how about an example:
It is a beautiful June Saturday, the weather is clear and the seas are flat. You are planning your entrance into Rudee Inlet in your new 48’ sport fisherman. You notice that the inlet channel is rather narrow and is crowded with small open boats drift fishing, there is additional inbound and outbound boat traffic, a few jet skis thrown into the mix, and groups of people on the bulkheads fishing.
Ignoring for the moment the Marine Police and the Coast Guard, what can you reasonable predict about the outcome of your entering the inlet if you decide to do so at 28 knots?
If you think about it, you will realize that you have probably been practicing situational awareness in one form or another for most of your life.
Operate, Navigate, and Communicate
These three simple statements should guide you when out on the water.
Operate - Your number one job is to operate your boat and nothing should distract you from that. I understand how difficult it can be at times. You are out for a great day of fishing with your wife or girlfriend, or if you are truly favored by the gods (TIC), — both. Your wife is harping on you for a new Chrysler Town & Country to get the kids to soccer practice and the girlfriend won’t leave you alone about the Versace dress that she wants¹. A record setting Bluefin has just hit your trolling rig and your thoughts go to selling this fish to some Sushi joint for $15,000.00, which should just about cover the cost of the dress. Are you still thinking about your boat?... Remember, stay focused. You still are responsible for the safety of the boat and everyone on board.
Navigate — At all times know where you are and where you are going. Preferably something a little more accurate than just knowing the name of the body of water you are on or proudly telling your guests; "That’s America over there". At least sharpen your skills to the point that you can proclaim with some certainty "That’s California, (I think)".
Communicate — Whenever you are in doubt, communicate! Worried that you will sound stupid asking someone what the clearance of that bridge is up ahead? Think about how stupid you will look when the mast of your boat is in the cockpit with you. Not sure what the intentions of that tug and tow heading directly at you are? ASK!
And finally for those of you who remember Hill Street Blues — "Be Safe Out There!"
Accident Investigations
Why Study Accident Reports?
Because it is a lot cheaper than having one yourself???
In all seriousness, much can be said for reading about what has happened to others on the water. For me personally, I begin to visualize the chain of events that led up to the accident, the decision making involved (whether good or bad), and can see where, had one of these events been removed from the chain, the accident may have been avoided.
Remember, the common sense decision process as well as situational awareness begins long before you step aboard your boat.
Please note: many of these files are quite large and will require substantial time to download over a dial up connection.
~Loss of the Morning Dew with All Hands~
During the early morning hours of December 29, 1997, the 34-foot recreational sailing vessel Morning Dew struck the rock jetty on the north side of the shipping channel into the harbor of Charleston, South Carolina. The owner/operator of the vessel and his three passengers, all members of the same family, died as a result of the accident.
~The Sinking of DUKW-34~
On Wednesday, July 7, 2010, the empty 250-foot-long sludge barge The Resource, being towed alongside the 78.9-foot-long tugboat Caribbean Sea, collided with the anchored 33-foot-long amphibious passenger vehicle DUKW 34 in the Delaware River at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. DUKW 34 carried 35 passengers and 2 crewmembers. On board the Caribbean Sea were five crewmembers. As a result of the collision, DUKW 34 sank in about 55 feet of water. Two passengers were fatally injured, and 26 passengers suffered minor injuries. No one on the Caribbean Sea was injured. Damage to DUKW 34 totaled $130,470. Damage to the barge was minimal; no repairs were made.
~Capsize and Loss of the Taki-Tooo~
On June 14, 2003, the small passenger vessel Taki-Tooo, a U.S. charter fishing vessel with 2 crewmen and 17 passengers on board, was en route from the marina to the ocean for a day of fishing. A small craft advisory was in effect. The U.S. Coast Guard had activated the rough bar warning signs based on their assessments of existing hazardous conditions. At the inlet, the Taki-Tooo operator waited in the channel for an opening in the ocean swells so that he could cross the bar. After the Taki-Tooo exited the inlet and turned northward around the north jetty, a wave struck and capsized the vessel. As a result of this accident, 11 people died; 8 people sustained minor injuries. The vessel, which had a replacement value of $180,000, was declared a total loss.
~The Capsize and Sinking of the Ethan Allen~
On the afternoon of October 2, 2005, the New York State-certificated public vessel Ethan Allen, with a New York State-licensed operator and 47 passengers on board, departed the marina at Lake George, New York, for a cruise of the lake. The vessel proceeded northbound along the western side of the lake at an estimated speed of 8 mph. As it neared Cramer Point, the operator began a turn to the right. At the same time, the Ethan Allen encountered a wave or waves generated by one or more vessels on its starboard side. Within a few seconds, the Ethan Allen rolled to port and overturned. It began to sink about 15 minutes later. Operators of recreational vessels nearby observed the accident, proceeded immediately to the site, and began rescuing survivors. Twenty passengers died, three received serious injuries, and six received minor injuries in the accident. The operator and 18 passengers survived without injury. The resulting damage to the vessel and its components was estimated at $21,000.
~Collision on the St. Croix River~
About 0125 on July 3, 1999, a 27-foot Advantage recreational motorboat (Advantage) with three men on board and a 22-foot Bayliner recreational motorboat (Bayliner) with two men on board collided on the St. Croix River near Bayport, Minnesota. No one witnessed the accident; however, the damage path across the top of the Bayliner indicated that the Advantage struck the starboard side of the Bayliner, forward of the windshield, and passed over the motorboat. All five occupants of the two motorboats died as a result of the collision. The three occupants of the Advantage died from drowning. The two occupants of the Bayliner died from blunt force trauma.
~Collision of the Bayside Blaster~
About 2013 on January 12, 2002, the 24-foot Coast Guard patrol boat CG242513, with two crewmembers on board, was on a routine recreational boating safety and manatee-zone patrol in Biscayne Bay, Florida, when it collided with the small passenger vessel Bayside Blaster, carrying 2 crewmembers and 53 passengers. Both Coast Guard crewmembers were ejected from their boat. The patrol boat continued running, circled to port, and struck the Bayside Blaster again. The unmanned Coast Guard patrol boat continued to circle for 10 to 15 minutes, striking a moored recreational boat two times and pilings near the shore. Five passengers who reported being injured were taken to the Coast Guard Station, where they were triaged. The two Coast Guard crewmembers were triaged by paramedics on Palm Island, taken to a nearby hospital for further examination.
~The Little Man II Allison~
About 1915 eastern daylight time on Sunday, April 12, 2009, an unnamed 22.5-foot recreational boat carrying 14 persons allided with the Little Man II, a 25.9-foot push boat (a type of towboat) moored near Ponte Vedra Beach in St. Johns County, Florida. An hour earlier, the recreational boat had departed a marina/restaurant in St. Augustine, Florida, and was northbound in the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) to a marina in Jacksonville Beach, Florida, a distance of about 30 miles (figure 1). Five persons on the boat died at the accident scene. The remaining nine persons were injured, seven seriously.
~Collision of the Thriller~
About 2028 the evening of Saturday, December 5, 2009, a 25-foot USCG response boat collided with the 55-foot-long small passenger vessel Thriller 09 in Charleston Harbor, South Carolina. THe Coast Guard boat with 3 crew, was returning from escort duty while the Thriller was engaged in a nighttime sightseeing tour with 2 crew and 22 passengers on board. Six persons on the Thriller received medical treatment for injuries.
~The Sinking of the Sydney Mae II~
On the evening of September 19, 2005 the Sydney Mae II, with the captain and 4 passengers, on board, were returning to the Umpqua River bar in Oregon after a day’s fishing. The bar crossing had been closed to recreational and uninspected vessels by the Coast Guard earlier at 1630. At about 2030, the captain’s decision to approach the Umpqua River bar too closely during hazardous conditions resulted in the Sydney Mae II being struck at the stern by (2) 10 to 12 foot waves swamping and sinking the vessel. As a result of the sinking 3 passengers died and the vessel was declared a total loss.
~The Sinking of the Panther~
On December 30, 2002, the passenger vessel Panther, a 31-foot open boat operated by Everglades National Park Boat Tours, was on its third tour of the day in Everglades National Park, Florida, with 33 passengers on board (including 5 children) plus the captain. Midway through the tour, shortly after 1430, the vessel sank in Indian Key Pass. Three nearby vessels responded to the accident and rescued passengers and crew from the water. No fatalities resulted from the accident, but one passenger suffered a serious injury.
~The Capsizing of the Lady D~
On March 6, 2004, the small passenger vessel Lady D, a water taxi with 2 crewmembers and 23 passengers on board, was en route from Fort McHenry to Fells Point, Maryland, when it encountered a rapidly developing storm with high winds. The vessel began to roll in the waves and eventually continued over onto its starboard side and capsized. Responders were able to rescue or recover all but 3 occupants of the Lady D and transport them to area hospitals within an hour of the accident. As a result of this accident, 5 passengers died; 4 passengers suffered serious injuries; and 12 people sustained minor injuries.
~The Sinking of the Lady Mary~
On March 18, 2009, the small fishing vessel Lady Mary departed her home port of Cape May, NJ for scallop fishing. Between 0510 and 0540 on the morning of March 24, 2009, the Lady Mary sank in 210 feet of water off the coast of New Jersey 65 miles southeast of Cape May. At the time of the sinking, the Lady Mary was engaged in dredging for scallops with 11,000 pounds already in her fish hold. As a result of this loss (6) crewmembers died and (1) crewmember survived. (2) crewmembers bodies have yet to be recovered.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon
On March 18, 2009, the small fishing vessel Lady Mary departed her home port of Cape May, NJ for scallop fishing. Between 0510 and 0540 on the morning of March 24, 2009, the Lady Mary sank in 210 feet of water off the coast of New Jersey 65 miles southeast of Cape May. At the time of the sinking, the Lady Mary was engaged in dredging for scallops with 11,000 pounds already in her fish hold. As a result of this loss (6) crewmembers died and (1) crewmember survived. (2) crewmembers bodies have yet to be recovered.
EPIRBs
Taking the "Search" out of Search and Rescue!
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) are either manually or automatically activated radio beacons that when used; transmit a digital signal that can be instantly picked up by satellites. With the latest changes in regulations, EPIRBs now transmit on 406 MHz, this frequency has been set aside as an international distress frequency. Today’s EPIRBs also transmit a low power signal on 121.5 MHz which allows search and rescue (SAR) teams to home in on the beacon’s position once they are in the area.
EPIRBs are used as a last resort safety device only; to be used when all else has failed and you are knee deep in whale doo doo. The latest version, the Category I and Category II Satellite 406 EPIRBs with built in GPS will provide position information to SAR teams that effectively takes the Search out of Search and Rescue.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) are either manually or automatically activated radio beacons that when used; transmit a digital signal that can be instantly picked up by satellites. With the latest changes in regulations, EPIRBs now transmit on 406 MHz, this frequency has been set aside as an international distress frequency. Today’s EPIRBs also transmit a low power signal on 121.5 MHz which allows search and rescue (SAR) teams to home in on the beacon’s position once they are in the area.
EPIRBs are used as a last resort safety device only; to be used when all else has failed and you are knee deep in whale doo doo. The latest version, the Category I and Category II Satellite 406 EPIRBs with built in GPS will provide position information to SAR teams that effectively takes the Search out of Search and Rescue.
How EPIRBs Work
When activated, the latest version of EPIRBs transmit a coded digital signal with information about the vessel in distress. This signal is then picked up by the COSPAS-SARSAT system. This system is made up two different types of satellite constellations: 1. (GEOSAR) - Geostationary Earth Orbiting Search and Rescue satellites and 2. (LEOSAR) - Low Earth Orbiting Search and Rescue satellites.
Once an EPIRB is activated the signal is almost instantaneously detected by the GEOSAR satellites and an alert is sent to the Mission Control Center via Local User Terminals. The only downside to this is that due to orbital mechanics, the GEOSAR system is unable to provide the data necessary to provide location information. So, unless you are lucky enough to have an EPIRB with integrated GPS, they know you are in trouble, they just don’t know where you are - YET!
This is where the LEOSAR satellites come into play. When a LEOSAR satellite makes a pass overhead it not only receives the same information as the GEOSAR system, it also has the ability to provide doppler processing of the EPIRB signal to determine your location. This information is then then sent to the Mission Control Center where the signal is processed and a location is calculated.
The number of COSPAS and SARSAT LEOSAR satellites allows global coverage capabilities of typically less than 1 hour.
Once a position has been calculated, this information is then passed to the appropriate Rescue Coordination Center who directly or indirectly provides for the allocation of assets required to provide for search and rescue.
When activated, the latest version of EPIRBs transmit a coded digital signal with information about the vessel in distress. This signal is then picked up by the COSPAS-SARSAT system. This system is made up two different types of satellite constellations: 1. (GEOSAR) - Geostationary Earth Orbiting Search and Rescue satellites and 2. (LEOSAR) - Low Earth Orbiting Search and Rescue satellites.
Once an EPIRB is activated the signal is almost instantaneously detected by the GEOSAR satellites and an alert is sent to the Mission Control Center via Local User Terminals. The only downside to this is that due to orbital mechanics, the GEOSAR system is unable to provide the data necessary to provide location information. So, unless you are lucky enough to have an EPIRB with integrated GPS, they know you are in trouble, they just don’t know where you are - YET!
This is where the LEOSAR satellites come into play. When a LEOSAR satellite makes a pass overhead it not only receives the same information as the GEOSAR system, it also has the ability to provide doppler processing of the EPIRB signal to determine your location. This information is then then sent to the Mission Control Center where the signal is processed and a location is calculated.
The number of COSPAS and SARSAT LEOSAR satellites allows global coverage capabilities of typically less than 1 hour.
Once a position has been calculated, this information is then passed to the appropriate Rescue Coordination Center who directly or indirectly provides for the allocation of assets required to provide for search and rescue.
What Types are available?
Satellite 406 MHz EPIRBs are divided into 2 categories:
1. Category I EPIRBs can be activated manually or automatically. They are stored in a hydrostatic release bracket designed to allow the unit to float free. In the event that the vessel sinks the Category I EPIRB is typically released at a depth of 3 to 13 feet where it then floats to the surface. A wet switch then activates the unit and it begins transmitting. Additionally the unit can be activated manually by flipping a switch.
2. Category II EPIRBs are not designed to float free and must be removed from their brackets manually. Once removed they may be activated by flipping a switch or they will also activate automatically when wet.
Additionally many Category I and II EPIRBs can be purchased with a GPS interface that allows the vessel’s onboard navigation system to update the EPIRBs position information so that the last known position is transmitted in the digital distress signal.
Finally at the top of the heap are the Category I and II EPIRBs that have integrated GPS units built in. These units will constantly transmit the beacons position to SAR units and likely bring a faster response.
Satellite 406 MHz EPIRBs are divided into 2 categories:
1. Category I EPIRBs can be activated manually or automatically. They are stored in a hydrostatic release bracket designed to allow the unit to float free. In the event that the vessel sinks the Category I EPIRB is typically released at a depth of 3 to 13 feet where it then floats to the surface. A wet switch then activates the unit and it begins transmitting. Additionally the unit can be activated manually by flipping a switch.
2. Category II EPIRBs are not designed to float free and must be removed from their brackets manually. Once removed they may be activated by flipping a switch or they will also activate automatically when wet.
1. Category I EPIRBs can be activated manually or automatically. They are stored in a hydrostatic release bracket designed to allow the unit to float free. In the event that the vessel sinks the Category I EPIRB is typically released at a depth of 3 to 13 feet where it then floats to the surface. A wet switch then activates the unit and it begins transmitting. Additionally the unit can be activated manually by flipping a switch.
2. Category II EPIRBs are not designed to float free and must be removed from their brackets manually. Once removed they may be activated by flipping a switch or they will also activate automatically when wet.
Additionally many Category I and II EPIRBs can be purchased with a GPS interface that allows the vessel’s onboard navigation system to update the EPIRBs position information so that the last known position is transmitted in the digital distress signal.
Finally at the top of the heap are the Category I and II EPIRBs that have integrated GPS units built in. These units will constantly transmit the beacons position to SAR units and likely bring a faster response.
EPIRBs
How accurate are they and how long before help arrives?
Position accuracy is primarily dependent on the model of EPIRB that you carry. EPIRB’s without integrated GPS that depend on COSPAS-SARSAT satellite passes typically can provide accuracies within a few miles. The newer models with integrated GPS units can narrow that down to normal GPS accuracy standards of 15 meters or less.
How long it takes for help to arrive once you activate an EPIRB cannot be accurately answered. If you are in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, you may have to wait until another vessel can be diverted to your position to provide assistance. If you are fishing the western wall of the Gulf Stream off of Cape Hatteras, it’s probably a 40 minute helicopter flight out of Elizabeth City.
The key is the type of EPIRB carried and if its properly registered. An EPIRB with integrated GPS will typically have the closest SAR assets gearing up in about 15 minutes. On the other hand non-GPS units may require an hour to have an accurate fix on your location and begin to mobilize SAR units. If your EPIRB is not properly registered you can expect further delays that may add up to 2 hours before SAR units are dispatched.
Position accuracy is primarily dependent on the model of EPIRB that you carry. EPIRB’s without integrated GPS that depend on COSPAS-SARSAT satellite passes typically can provide accuracies within a few miles. The newer models with integrated GPS units can narrow that down to normal GPS accuracy standards of 15 meters or less.
How long it takes for help to arrive once you activate an EPIRB cannot be accurately answered. If you are in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, you may have to wait until another vessel can be diverted to your position to provide assistance. If you are fishing the western wall of the Gulf Stream off of Cape Hatteras, it’s probably a 40 minute helicopter flight out of Elizabeth City.
The key is the type of EPIRB carried and if its properly registered. An EPIRB with integrated GPS will typically have the closest SAR assets gearing up in about 15 minutes. On the other hand non-GPS units may require an hour to have an accurate fix on your location and begin to mobilize SAR units. If your EPIRB is not properly registered you can expect further delays that may add up to 2 hours before SAR units are dispatched.
Who should carry an EPIRB?
So who should carry EPIRB’s? Ignoring those commercial vessels that are required to carry an EPIRB by law, pleasure vessels in the U.S. have no carriage requirements (at least not yet). The answer to this question is arguably subjective. Many boaters have to balance their safety requirements with their pocketbooks. Others, who may not be constrained by a budget, may feel that an EPIRB is not required for their specific type of inshore or near shore boating.
So to offer my 2 cents worth, I would recommend that any boater that goes beyond normally accepted VHF range should seriously consider putting an EPIRB on board. For those that cruise or engage in long offshore passages, it’s a no brainer!
So who should carry EPIRB’s? Ignoring those commercial vessels that are required to carry an EPIRB by law, pleasure vessels in the U.S. have no carriage requirements (at least not yet). The answer to this question is arguably subjective. Many boaters have to balance their safety requirements with their pocketbooks. Others, who may not be constrained by a budget, may feel that an EPIRB is not required for their specific type of inshore or near shore boating.
So to offer my 2 cents worth, I would recommend that any boater that goes beyond normally accepted VHF range should seriously consider putting an EPIRB on board. For those that cruise or engage in long offshore passages, it’s a no brainer!
Registering Your EPIRB!
The law requires that all 406 MHz Satellite beacons be registered. When you register, you are providing SAR personnel with valuable information that will help expedite their response in the event of an emergency. Additionally in the event of an unwanted activation, it provides a means to contact the owner to determine if there is an emergency or not and if not to advise them of the accidental activation.
EPIRBs in the U.S. are registered with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). We have provided the official NOAA registration form below which you can download and file. Additionally when there is a change in any information provided; boat, address, or primary phone numbers you are required re-register in order to update the information. If you happen to sell your EPIRB or if it accompanies the vessel you have sold, be sure that the new owner re-register’s the EPIRB in their name. If not, the Coast Guard will be calling you in the middle of the night if it happens to activate.
Don’t forget that current law requires that you re-register your EPIRB every 2 years even if there has been no change to the original registration information. While onerous, 2 year registration renewal makes sense. It effectively keeps the NOAA EPIRB database up to date with reasonably current information.
Once the form is completed you can fax it directly to NOAA/SARSAT at 301-817-4565. If you have any questions regarding the registration process you can call NOAA directly at 301-817-4515.
You also have the option of registering your EPIRB on line at Official NOAA 406 EPIRB Online Registration Form .
We have EPIRB registration applications available for these countries as well:
Many countries also have seperate registration forms required for Personal Locater Beacons (PLB’s), these are also available for download.
We will add to this list as other country’s registration applications become available to us. If any of our readers know of any other countries registration applications, please drop us a line and let us know and we will get them posted here.
If your particular country does not have a national office for EPIRB registration you can register your beacon at Cospas / Sarsat.
The law requires that all 406 MHz Satellite beacons be registered. When you register, you are providing SAR personnel with valuable information that will help expedite their response in the event of an emergency. Additionally in the event of an unwanted activation, it provides a means to contact the owner to determine if there is an emergency or not and if not to advise them of the accidental activation.
EPIRBs in the U.S. are registered with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). We have provided the official NOAA registration form below which you can download and file. Additionally when there is a change in any information provided; boat, address, or primary phone numbers you are required re-register in order to update the information. If you happen to sell your EPIRB or if it accompanies the vessel you have sold, be sure that the new owner re-register’s the EPIRB in their name. If not, the Coast Guard will be calling you in the middle of the night if it happens to activate.
Don’t forget that current law requires that you re-register your EPIRB every 2 years even if there has been no change to the original registration information. While onerous, 2 year registration renewal makes sense. It effectively keeps the NOAA EPIRB database up to date with reasonably current information.
Once the form is completed you can fax it directly to NOAA/SARSAT at 301-817-4565. If you have any questions regarding the registration process you can call NOAA directly at 301-817-4515.
You also have the option of registering your EPIRB on line at Official NOAA 406 EPIRB Online Registration Form .
We have EPIRB registration applications available for these countries as well:
Many countries also have seperate registration forms required for Personal Locater Beacons (PLB’s), these are also available for download.
We will add to this list as other country’s registration applications become available to us. If any of our readers know of any other countries registration applications, please drop us a line and let us know and we will get them posted here.
If your particular country does not have a national office for EPIRB registration you can register your beacon at Cospas / Sarsat.
Testing and Maintaining Your EPIRB
While EPIRBS are one of the most reliable pieces of safety equipment found on board, this does not mean that they are infallible. When you consider the prolonged periods of exposure to weather that the typical EPIRB is subject to, it would be wise to have a periodic maintenance and testing plan in place. All EPIRB owners should follow the procedures set out by their particular manufacturer.
NOAA in conjunction with the Coast Guard recommends a monthly inspection and testing schedule. They have developed a generic list of items that you should be checking during your monthly inspection.
During your maintenance procedures, you will want to keep in mind that 30% of false alarms generated by EPIRBS occur during testing. So be careful!
While EPIRBS are one of the most reliable pieces of safety equipment found on board, this does not mean that they are infallible. When you consider the prolonged periods of exposure to weather that the typical EPIRB is subject to, it would be wise to have a periodic maintenance and testing plan in place. All EPIRB owners should follow the procedures set out by their particular manufacturer.
NOAA in conjunction with the Coast Guard recommends a monthly inspection and testing schedule. They have developed a generic list of items that you should be checking during your monthly inspection.
During your maintenance procedures, you will want to keep in mind that 30% of false alarms generated by EPIRBS occur during testing. So be careful!
Binoculars
The Marine Binocular
Should You Carry Binoculars Onboard?
The answer to this is a resounding "Yes!" Marine Binoculars (AKA Glasses, Bino’s, or Binoc’s) should never be considered a "nice to have" item. Most mariners would never consider leaving the dock without a VHF radio aboard, likewise binoculars should be considered as another piece of equipment that plays an important role in both navigation and safety.
Binoculars provide assistance to the captain, navigator, and crew by allowing them to clearly make out navigational aids such as buoys and daymarks. They also allow for spotting and identifying objects such as: ships or other vessels, approaching weather, landmarks, and hazards. So common sense seems to dictate that a good pair of marine binoculars should be aboard every boat.
What To Look For In Marine Binoculars
Trying to decide on which pair of marine binoculars to buy is a job in itself. With all the different manufacturers, features, and marketing hype it can be a daunting task to select a pair of binoculars that meet your requirements and can withstand the environment in which they will be used. When you couple that with the price of high quality binoculars being what it is, buying the right pair the first time around is important.
The upside to all of this is that when you purchase a quality pair of marine binoculars and give them reasonable care, they will provide you with a lifetime of service. Each buyer knows what price is within their budget, that being said we will avoid using price as a factor other than to say prices range from dirt cheap to take your breath away expensive.
In the following pages we will talk about the different qualities that make up a good pair of marine binoculars and provide you a simple check list of what to look for.
Knowing What to Look For - Part 1
So, What Makes Up Quality Marine Binoculars?
Before you hit the stores or log on to the internet to purchase your binoculars, you should familiarize yourself as to what features you should be looking for. Most every quality pair of binoculars are designed and sold for a specific use and this applies also to marine binoculars.
While many different types of binoculars share some common features, many features are unique to the use envisioned. While most mariners would agree that being waterproof is a must have feature for use aboard a boat, for use at the opera or concert probably not a top priority.
Below we will talk about the different qualities that make up a good pair of marine binoculars and provide you a simple check list of what to look for.
Magnification
Regardless of the manufacturer, most binoculars, including marine binoculars, are marketed by their power and size such as 4x40, 8x32, 7x50, 10x40, etc. So what exactly do these numbers mean? Well the first number is the magnification or power of the binocular. As an example, using 10x40, would indicate that the binoculars provide a magnification or power of 10x. In basic terms this means that any object viewed will appear 10x closer than it actually is. The second number "40" is the size of the objective lens of the binocular. (More about objective lenses later.)
While at first it would seem that the higher the magnification the better, the truth is that with higher magnification comes a reduced field of view (FOV). This reduced FOV makes it difficult to near impossible to locate or keep an object in view when bouncing around on the water, some Image Stabilized Binoculars being the exception.
Most professional mariners tend to agree that 7x is about the upper limit for non-image stabilized marine binoculars. This provides the best trade off of power versus FOV that can be handled aboard a rolling boat.
Objective Lens Size
This is the second part of the number we were talking about above; 4x40, 8x32, 7x50, 10x40. It tells you the size of the objective lens (front lens) in millimeters. In the case of binoculars marked as 10x40, you can decipher this as having an objective lens size of 40 millimeters in diameter.
The objective lens size indicates how much light the binocular can receive and how bright and clear the viewed image will be. In simple terms the bigger the better. This becomes especially important in low light situations such as night time use. Keep in mind though, that the larger the objective lens is, the larger and heavier the pair of binoculars will be.
For marine use the commonly accepted objective lens diameter is 50 millimeters. This provides what many believe to be the best trade off of size versus light gathering ability.
Waterproof
The wet and damp marine environment makes waterproof binoculars one of the most important features required for marine use. It is important to remember 2 things about waterproof binoculars: "weatherproof is not waterproof." and "water resistant is not waterproof."
Unless your binoculars are completely sealed, moisture will eventually get into the interior of the binoculars. You should look for only those that are totally ’O’- Ring sealed as well as nitrogen filled / purged. This will ensure that you binoculars remain waterproof and prevent fogging of the interior glass during temperature changes or even if they become completely submerged to a reasonable depth.
Focus Types
Individual Eyepiece Focus
Individual eyepiece focus is the standard for waterproof / sealed type marine binoculars. Individual eyepiece focus simply means that you focus each eyepiece to the appropriate eye. To do this, look at something in the distance, close your right eye or cover the objective lens and focus the left eyepiece until the image you are looking at is clear and sharp. This is your eyes diopter setting. Repeat the procedure for your other eye. Your binoculars are now focused for your eyes and will be in focus from approximately 25 yards out to infinity.
Once you have focused your binoculars to your eyes they will not need to be focused again unless the diopter settings are changed. It is good practice to remember your particular settings, this will allow you to quickly refocus your binoculars by simply lining up your diopter marks and the binoculars will be set once again for your eyes.
An additional plus for this type of focus adjustment is that many people who wear glasses can adjust the diopter settings to allow them to use their binoculars without prescription glasses.
Center Focus
Center focus systems tend to be more all purpose than individual focus eyepieces. It allows you to quickly adjust the focus when viewing objects at short distances. It is rare to find marine binoculars using a center focus system. The primary reason being is that they are much harder to waterproof to marine standards.
Exit Pupil
If you hold binoculars about a foot from your eyes, you will see a bright circle of light in both eye pieces, this is Exit Pupil. Since the human eye pupil diameter in dark conditions ranges between 5 and 8 millimeters depending on age, it is best to select binoculars that have an exit pupil equal to or greater than the pupil diameter of your eye. This provides the eye with the greatest amount of light transmission.
To determine the Exit Pupil of any pair of binoculars simply divide the objective lens diameter by the magnification or power. 8x40 would have an Exit Pupil of 5mm while 7x50 would yield 7.1mm.
Knowing What to Look For - Part 2
Light Transmission
Light transmission is another critical factor in marine binoculars. In any given situation, the amount of light striking the objective lens of binoculars’ is the same regardless of the quality. The important factor here is how much of that light is passed through to the ocular lens. Less expensive binoculars may only allow 80% or less light transmission while Quality binoculars will allow 90% light transmission. The top rated marine binoculars will allow 95% to 97% of light to reach the ocular lens. This means brighter images when viewed and are superior for low light situations such as night time viewing.
Lens Coatings
On a bright sunny day on the water you can’t help but notice the reflected glare from the water’s surface. Lens coatings are designed to reduce this glare and improve the transmission of light resulting again in sharper and brighter images.
Coatings come in a number of different variations, from "Coated" to "Fully Multi-coated" with the latter being the preferred choice. Lens coatings will appear as subtle rainbow hues of colors on the lenses.
Prisms
The use of prisms in binoculars allow for brighter images and higher magnification than non-prism type binoculars. There are typically (2) types of prisms used in the manufacture of binoculars today, Roof Prisms and Porro Prisms.
Roof Prisms
Roof prism binoculars result in a narrow more compact design. They can be easily identified by the fact that the ocular eyepieces are in line with the objective lens resulting in straight narrow tube design. Roof prisms employ silvered surfaces that reduce light transmission by up to 15% resulting in loss of image brightness.
Porro Prisms
Porro prism binoculars will inherently produce a brighter image than roof-prism binoculars of the same magnification, objective size, and optical quality while at the same time typically provide a wider field of view.
Glass Quality
Another issue with prisms is the quality of glass used in the binoculars manufacture. The two most common are BaK-4 and BK-7. BaK-4 is the preferred type since it uses quality barium crown glass which produces sharper images by preventing internal light scatter.
Field of View
Field of View (FOV) expresses the width of view at a specific distance, usually 1000 yards or 1000 meters. A field of view which is to narrow will result in difficulty in locating what you are looking for. A field of view which is too wide will result in image distortion at the edges.
The field of view on marine binoculars is typically engraved on the binoculars as either a linear value such as: 350 feet (or meters) at 1000 yards (or meters). It can also be expressed angularly such as 5° or 7°.
In an effort to compare apples to apples, to convert an angular FOV to a Linear FOV:
- Each degree of angular FOV equals 52.5’ of viewing width at 1000 yards.
- Each degree of angular FOV equals 17.5 meters of viewing width at 1000 meters.
Look for marine binoculars that have a FOV of not less than 5° or more than 7.5° this should provide the average user a balance between a reasonable FOV and image sharpness.
Eye Relief
If you are an eyeglass wearer and the binoculars’ individual eyepiece focus is inadequate to correct for your vision, Eye Relief becomes an important issue. Basically eye relief is the distance that you can hold the binoculars away from your eyes when you are wearing either sunglasses or prescription glasses and still retain image focus. If eye relief is an issue, you should choose a pair that offers a minimum of 16mm eye relief with 18mm + being better.
Compass
Many binoculars built for marine use come with an integrated compass that will enable you to take the bearing of an object while observing it. While I may not find much use for binoculars with a range finder scale, for me an integrated compass is well worth the extra cost. My old hand bearing compass has now been relegated to the bottom of the chart table drawer or occasionally used as a paper weight.
Looking for a distant mark and taking a bearing of that mark at the same time is a valuable tool for the navigator. This value becomes even more evident in low light conditions.
Rangefinder
Some marine binoculars have a range finding scale built into the binocular. This feature has become quite common place especially in those binoculars that have an integrated compass. This allows the distance to an object to be estimated if the height of the object is known with some simple math thrown in. While this feature has some practical usage for a limited number of boaters, for me, after 40+ years on the water, I do not ever remember using this feature. My personal preference is if it comes with the binoculars I choose great, if not I am not going to miss it. Usually when I need to know the distance to an object, I fire up the radar!
Armor Coating
Typically this is a heavy rubber compound that is molded to the outer body of the binoculars. Since things on boats tend to get bounced and tossed around much more than they do on dry land, this armor coating will prove invaluable. They not only protect the binoculars from getting banged up, they also help to prevent sliding when set on a wet surface.
Size and Weight
This is primarily an individual preference. I personally do not put a lot of weight (no pun intended) to this; either for or against. Heavier binoculars may give you a more stable viewing advantage, lighter binoculars will allow long usage without feeling like you have brick tied around your neck. In most cases the average boater rarely wears their binoculars for any lengthy period of time, they are usually kept in a cradle or stowage box below or at the helm until needed so weight is usually a non-issue.
If your plans are to make use of your binoculars in other areas besides boating, then you may want to consider their weight when making your decision.
Marine Binoculars - Some Observations
Floatation
Most marine binoculars DO NOT FLOAT, so a floatation strap is a wise investment. The vulgarities and invectives emanating from your mouth when you (or someone else) drops your glasses over the side would make a drunken sailor blush. A $30.00 floatation strap makes for mighty cheap insurance against loss. Additionally most floatation straps are more comfortable to wear around your neck than the normally thin neck straps that accompany most marine binoculars.
Cleaning and Storage
Remember that your binoculars will be used in a marine environment. Salt deposits from seawater splashing and spray can scratch and damage the lenses of your binoculars just a fast as dust and dirt will do to the binoculars of our shore bound friends.
Cleaning
Step 1 - Begin the process by cleaning the exterior body portions of your binoculars first. Make sure that you have the lens caps in place so that you do not accidentally scratch or transfer any contaminants to the lenses.
Using a soft brush and a cloth dampened in fresh water, completely clean the exterior of your binoculars. Since marine binoculars should be waterproof, you may combine the above with flushing the exterior with a "gentle" stream of fresh water.
Step 2 - Once you have cleaned the exterior you can remove the lens caps and using a gentle stream of water to dissolve and float away any salt, use a lens brush to remove any remaining loose dust and dirt from the lenses.
After any salt residue has been removed, moisten a clean cotton ball or a Q-Tip with clean fresh water (distilled water is preferred) and using a circular motion beginning at the center of the lens gently wipe the lenses out to the outer edges.
Another choice is lens cleaning solution approved by your binoculars’ manufacturer. Remember, not all lens cleaning solutions are created equal. The use of unapproved lens cleaning solutions or solutions designed for cleaning your windows at home may have a harmful effect on the lens coatings of your binoculars.
A micro-fiber lens cloth may also prove effective if approved by the manufacturer. If you use a micro-fiber cloth it should be stored with your binoculars and never used for any other purpose.
DO NOT use toilet paper, paper towels, or tissue paper to clean your lenses.
Storage
After you have thoroughly cleaned your glasses, don’t forget to store them away in that foam filled hard sided case that you bought just for that purpose. You did buy one didn't you?
With thanks to "Captain Larry" for proofreading and reminding me that when I am done, they need to be cleaned and put away.
Caveat Emptor!
There are a number of manufacturers that produce good quality binoculars, but even more important to realize, there are many more that produce junk in fancy packaging.
For marine use, binocular makers such as Bushnell, Nikon, Carl Zeiss to name just a few, are reputable manufacturers. Currently, Fujinon and Steiner are probably recognized as being the top of the line in marine glasses. Selecting the appropriate model from either of these two companies will provide you with some of the finest optics on the water.
Regardless of which manufacturer you decide to go with, researching which pair of binoculars is right for you will take a little time. If you are serious about purchasing a good pair of marine binoculars that will last a lifetime, make the time!
Some Personal Observations!
You have just purchased YOUR ideal pair of binoculars and you have a bit of money invested in them; so what can you expect now?
The "gut sinking feeling" as you realize that everyone on the boat always seems to be reaching for YOUR glasses.
The pain as you "sit quietly biting your tongue" while you watch your guests screw off the ocular eyepieces attempting to adjust the focus.
The amazing lack of blood as you "chew on your knuckles" while you watch your best fishing buddy set your glasses down on the gunwale of the boat just out of your reach and they slowly slide off over the side.
"Blood pressure increases" when you realize that you are the only person on the boat who seems to understand what the lens covers are for.
I could go on, but I think your getting the picture. So, I offer three solutions that I have tried:
- Spend an extra $50.00 to $100.00 and buy (1 or 2) additional pairs of inexpensive binoculars for the guests and the kids.
- Practice your gruffest voice and then say "That better be the winch handle your reaching for!"
- And when all else fails, show them the electrical arc across the contacts on your handheld TASER.
Some out there may have found other or better solutions. If so, I would love to hear about them. Please send us an e-mail at BlueSeas . Any really great methods we hear of we will post on this page to share the benefits or the laughs with others.
Binoculars Buyers Checklist
A checklist that you may find useful in selecting YOUR perfect pair of marine binoculars. This check list is available for download with the "Model" columns left blank for your use. Marine Binoculars Buyers Checklist Download
Marine Binoculars - A Look at Some of the Best
So Which Is The Best?
Not such an easy question to answer! Ignoring price for a moment, the finest binoculars made may not be the right fit for everyone. In addition to the easily determined specifications, there is the more difficult subjective question of "Are these the right binoculars for me?"
So, we will chart what I believe to be the top 2 contenders for the best marine binoculars produced today. We will look only at the specifications and leave the subjective reasoning to the individual user.
Marine Binoculars Comparison Chart | |||||
| Models | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Specification | Recommended | Fujinon | Steiner | ||
| Model | Polaris | Commander XP C | |||
| Model # | FMTRC-SX | 395 | |||
| Magnification | 7x | 7x | 7x | ||
| Objective Lens Size | 50 mm | 50 mm | 50 mm | ||
| Waterproof | O-Ring Sealed and Nitrogen Filled or Purged (Mil-Spec) | Yes | Yes | ||
| Focus Type | Individual Eyepiece Focus | Yes | Yes | ||
| Exit Pupil | 5 to 8 mm | 7.14 mm | 7.62 mm | ||
| Light Transmission | 90% or Greater | 95% | 96% | ||
| Lens Coatings | Fully Multi-Coated Preferred | Yes | Yes | ||
| Prisms | Porro Prisms | Yes | Yes | ||
| Field of View | 5° to 7.5° | 7.5° | 7.4° | ||
| Eye Relief | 16 mm Minimum 18+ mm Better | 23.0 mm | 20.2 mm | ||
| Integrated Compass | Personal Preference, but Well Worth the Extra Cost | Yes | Yes | ||
| Integrated Rangefinder | Personal Preference, but May Prove Useful to Some | Yes | Yes | ||
| Armoring | Yes - Rubberized Coating | Yes | Yes | ||
| Size & Weight | Personal Preference | 3.21 lbs. | 2.44 lbs. | ||
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime | 30 Years | |||
| List Price | $1,160.00 | $1,300.00 | |||
| Street Price | $693.00 | $1,199.00 | |||
Decisions... Decisions...
As can be seen from the chart above, the Fujinon Polaris and the Steiner Commander XP are both top of the line glasses and almost identical in their specifications and abilities. Regardless of which model you choose you will have one of the finest pair of binoculars available that will last you a lifetime.
And Finally, For Those who Demand The Very Best . . .
We have the Steiner 7x50 Commander XP Global
... For a mere $2700.00 street price!
... For a mere $2700.00 street price!
At that price, every man or woman (depending on your personal predilection), that you gaze upon with these binoculars, had damn well turn into a 10!
In Search of the Perfect Anchor
Many boaters never give much thought to that anchor on the bow. In fact I would venture a guess that there are many boats out there whose anchor has never kissed the water. To all those I would caution … "When the day comes that you need an anchor; you are probably going to Really, Really, need an Anchor!!!"
Identifying the Perfect Anchor
To start let’s clear the air about the "perfect anchor" - There is None!
No single anchor design works under all conditions, all bottom types, and in every situation. To be fair though, there are a couple of designs out there that do come close.
There is only one acceptable outcome to successful anchoring: "To turn in each night knowing that your boat will be in the same place when you get up the next morning." Something that you might want to keep in mind when beginning your search for your next “Perfect Anchor!”
So what does the perfect anchor look like?
It should:
- Penetrate, set quickly, and hold in all bottom conditions: sand, mud, grass, coral, rocks, etc…
- Reset quickly when wind or tidal currents change and cause the anchor to break out.
- Provide maximum holding power on steady or varying loads.
- Be easy to breakout when you are getting underway.
- Have easy storage either on deck, storage locker, or an anchor roller platform.
- Be of high strength and durable construction.
Good luck finding one of those, and if you do let me know so I can get one too!
Anchors - How They Work
Anchors typically work in one of two ways:
- Like using a 2000# mushroom anchor that makes use of its weight alone to keep your 20' CC fishing boat in the exact spot that you want it.
OR
- Like most modern anchor designs, an anchor that penetrates the bottom and buries itself with little regard to its weight.
So What’s the Solution?
For those that cruise extensively and often anchor in many different bottom types and weather situations, it is good practice to carry at least (2) anchors of differing styles. This allows for the use of the most effective anchor for prevailing conditions. More importantly though, is that in the event of foul weather a second anchor can be set to provide additional security.
For the boater whose normal cruising range is limited to a small area with a relatively consistent bottom type, a single anchor may be all that is required, but choose carefully. The prudent mariner may also want to consider having a storm anchor nonetheless.
Ground Tackle
Before you rush out to find and buy your next anchor, there is an important point to be made. While the anchor you choose is important, it is only one part of the total system that you have to rely on.
This total system, commonly referred to as "ground tackle", is comprised of the anchor, the anchor line or anchor chain, properly referred to as the "rode." And just who came up with that term, "rode?" It kind of reminds me of how I feel leaving Sloppy Joes or the Hog’s Breath at 2 A.M. (Like in "Rode Hard and Put Away Wet"), but I digress. Then there is the windless if so equipped, some form of a stopper if using a windless, and finally the attachment point aboard your vessel. All of these items must work together to provide you with a good night’s sleep.
Since most readers are primarily interested knowing which anchor is best for them, we will start with a discussion on the various types of anchors along with their pros and cons.
Anchor Design
There are basically 3 or 4 anchor designs found on pleasure boats today. They include: The Lightweight (Fluke) Anchors, Plow and Scoop Anchors, and Claw Anchors. Within these categories, you will find a wide selection of designs and manufacturers. Some of these designs are based on modifications for special applications, some are design improvements on the original, and many are just cheap knock offs designed to attract the buyer with price savings (Caveat Emptor.)
The Fluke Anchors
Lightweight Type Anchors (LWT)
The most common anchor of this class is the "lightweight anchor." This anchor is easily recognizable due to the large pivoting fluke areas and the stock being mounted at the crown of the anchor. The most famous of the LWT anchor designs is the "Danforth." The "Danforth" name has become synonymous with all lightweight style anchors. So much so, that this entire class of anchors is often referred to as Danforth's regardless of the manufacturer.
The idea behind the Lightweight design was to provide an anchor with good holding characteristics in a small and relatively light weight package that was easy to store aboard a vessel. Richard S. Danforth met this challenge and first tested his original design in 1940.
The design intent was to provide a large fluke surface area relative to the anchor’s weight than other types of anchors. This characteristic of the LWT style anchor allowed, when once properly set, to provide extremely high holding forces, often to the point where components of the ground tackle system may fail before the anchor drags or breaks out.
The lightweight’s performance, like most modern day anchors, is solely dependent on its ability to dig into the bottom and remain there. During the manufacturing process the fluke angle is critical to provide the best chance for bottom penetration. For your typical sand bottom, that has been found to be ≈32°.
As a testament to this design, since the original patent expired, it has been copied and manufactured by hundreds of companies worldwide in varying degrees of quality.
The Major Players
"Danforth Anchors" 
The original, now manufactured by Tie Down Engineering, are well regarded in their ability to provide high holding power in your typical sandy or mud bottom. In other bottoms such as grass or kelp, rocks, very hard sand, and clay bottoms they are generally regarded as poor performers due to their inability to set quickly, if at all. The use of Hi-Tensile steel in some models, has also provided additional strength in the critical fluke and shank areas. Compare Pricing on Danforth Anchors
The original, now manufactured by Tie Down Engineering, are well regarded in their ability to provide high holding power in your typical sandy or mud bottom. In other bottoms such as grass or kelp, rocks, very hard sand, and clay bottoms they are generally regarded as poor performers due to their inability to set quickly, if at all. The use of Hi-Tensile steel in some models, has also provided additional strength in the critical fluke and shank areas. Compare Pricing on Danforth Anchors
"Fortress Anchors" 
have taken the LWT anchor design to the next level. While the Fortress Anchor is almost indistinguishable from the original Danforth to the untrained eye, Fortress Marine has made a number of significant improvements. The Fortress’ fluke angle can be adjusted to match varying bottom conditions, the tripping palms can be modifed to assist in setting, and its construction from aluminum-magnesium alloy offers even greater weight savings without sacrificing strength. The Fortress can also be easily disassembled for easy storage if being carried as a second anchor.Compare Pricing on Fortress Anchors
have taken the LWT anchor design to the next level. While the Fortress Anchor is almost indistinguishable from the original Danforth to the untrained eye, Fortress Marine has made a number of significant improvements. The Fortress’ fluke angle can be adjusted to match varying bottom conditions, the tripping palms can be modifed to assist in setting, and its construction from aluminum-magnesium alloy offers even greater weight savings without sacrificing strength. The Fortress can also be easily disassembled for easy storage if being carried as a second anchor.Compare Pricing on Fortress AnchorsThe Pro’s and Con’s
The Pro’s
- The Danforth style anchor is excellent in normal sand or mud bottoms.
- It is light in weight.
- Inexpensive in relation to other designs.
The Con’s
- Very limited ability to set and hold in rock, grass, hard sand, gravel, or clay bottoms.
- Does not reset easily in wind or current shifts.
Keep in mind, that all anchors will break out given the right conditions, such as during large wind veers or during tidal current changes and the Danforth is no exception. However, the Danforth is not well known for its ability to reset quickly and easily.
Another issue of the LWT anchor is when the vessel overrides the anchor, the anchor line or chain may foul on the exposed stock preventing the anchor from resetting until cleared.
The Danforth Anchor is available in galvanized steel or galvanized high tensile steel. It is available in sizes from 3.5 pounds (1.6 kg) to 190 pounds (86 kg.) The Danforth's manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloaded here.
The Fortress Anchor is produced in aluminum alloy only. It is available in sizes from 4 pounds (1.8 kg) to 69 pounds (31.3 kg.) The Fortress Anchor manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart is also available to view or download.
The Plow Anchors
Plow Type Anchors
Named due to its resemblance to the farming implement, the original and most famous of this type of anchor is the "CQR" anchor. Patented in 1933 by the Geoffrey Taylor of the United Kingdom, the plow anchor quickly became a favorite as the primary anchor for larger pleasure vessels.
The CQR anchor was designed as a single fluke anchor with extra weight being placed in the tip of the fluke. This extra weight in the tip was to aid the anchor to dig in quicker and set faster while the fluke itself provided resistance to dragging once the anchor was set.
The largest drawback to the plow is due to its design and weight. The plow style anchor, whether articulated or fixed shank, are not easy to stow or handle. An anchor roller platform is almost a must have item to conveniently stow and have the anchor available for immediate use.
Much like the Danforth LWT anchor, the "CQR" because of its popularity, has been copied and manufactured by many different companies. The British firm Lewmar now owns the original CQR name and design.
So Why Does The Shank On A CQR Anchor Pivot??
Over the years, there has been a lot of misunderstanding, dockside gab sessions, and probably even a few heated watering hole discussions about this topic. So lets try to clear up the misconceptions!
Quite a few out there including some of the "Anchor Experts," feel that the design was to allow a vessel riding to a CQR anchor the ability to swing on her anchor to a greater degree before causing the anchor to break out.
So allow me to throw some proverbial gas on the fire:
- The only reason behind this particular design concept was to allow the fluke of the anchor to right itself and to remain in the correct position when setting the anchor.
Below is an excerpt from the original U.S. Patent application #1,974,933, filed 28 February 1934. Or in the inventors own words:
"The provision of the hinge between the two portions of the shank-which is an essential of the invention, ensures that in the first place, when the anchor falls on the ground or when drag is initially applied, the fluke will take up a position such that it will tend to dig into the ground. The hinge thereafter ensures the automatic righting action of the fluke and the maintenance of substantially stable conditions during the continuance of drag."
The Major Players
The original "CQR" has always been well regarded as a good general purpose anchor and remains well thought of by many cruising sailors around the world. While not up to par with the most recent of anchor designs, it is known for its ability to be used under many different bottom conditions and generally proves to be adequate for the job. The use of drop forging in some models has also provided additional strength in the critical fluke areas. Compare Pricing on CQR Anchors
has always been well regarded as a good general purpose anchor and remains well thought of by many cruising sailors around the world. While not up to par with the most recent of anchor designs, it is known for its ability to be used under many different bottom conditions and generally proves to be adequate for the job. The use of drop forging in some models has also provided additional strength in the critical fluke areas. Compare Pricing on CQR Anchors
With the introduction of the "Delta" 
the plow anchor took a giant stride forward. Delta offered a vast improvement in plow anchor technology. Developed in the 1980s by Simpson–Lawrence, it maintained a striking resemblance to the original CQR. The first thing you will notice is that the shank is now fixed, the shank geometry was also changed to force the tip downwards during setting. This downward force as well as retaining the weighted tip purportedly aids in quicker sets. The fluke has an increased surface area and now flares outward at the rear to provide more resistance to dragging and twisting forces. Because of this re-designed geometry, the Delta is reputed to have a slightly superior advantage in holding power over the CQR. Compare Pricing on Delta Anchors
the plow anchor took a giant stride forward. Delta offered a vast improvement in plow anchor technology. Developed in the 1980s by Simpson–Lawrence, it maintained a striking resemblance to the original CQR. The first thing you will notice is that the shank is now fixed, the shank geometry was also changed to force the tip downwards during setting. This downward force as well as retaining the weighted tip purportedly aids in quicker sets. The fluke has an increased surface area and now flares outward at the rear to provide more resistance to dragging and twisting forces. Because of this re-designed geometry, the Delta is reputed to have a slightly superior advantage in holding power over the CQR. Compare Pricing on Delta AnchorsThe Pro’s and Con’s
When I began thinking about listing the pro’s and con’s of the plow anchor, I first began considering my own experiences. But what if I was just lucky (or unlucky) as the case may be. Maybe my personal experiences did not have enough data points to be a fair evaluation. With that thought in mind I decided a search on the “Pros and Cons of Plow Anchors” was in order.
Without naming any individual websites, here is what I discovered about the venerable plow anchor:
On Clay Bottoms:
- best for clay bottoms
- not so well in clay
- It is best for clay bottoms
- Limited or no holding in clay bottoms
On Grass and Weed Bottoms:
- holds more effectively in grass
- the plow dislikes weed and grass
- Ideal for weedy bottoms
- The plow anchor is said to not work well in thick grass or weed bottoms
- In weed it holds reasonably well
- Limited or no holding in grass
- Penetrates weeds
- Not suitable for grass, weed, & kelp
- this anchor is more effective in grass than other lightweight anchors
- is said to not work well in thick grass or weed bottoms
- Plow type anchors excel at penetrating grass
And just when you thought it couldn't get any better …
On Rocky Bottoms:
- is not good in rock
- They perform well in gravel, rocks, and coral
- Will not dig in on a rocky seabed
- They can be used on rocky bottoms
- Limited or no holding in rock
On Mud Bottoms:
- holds more effectively in mud
- the plow holds poorly in soft mud
- very effective in mud
- best for mud
- firmly plant themselves sometimes several feet deep in mud
- It is best for mud bottoms
- not so well in soft mud
- Ideal for mud
- does wonders in mud
- good in mud
- Penetrates mud
On Sand Bottoms:
- very effective in sand
- Not suitable for hard compact sand
- firmly plant themselves in sand
- has good holding qualities in sand
- They perform well in sand
- does wonders in sand
- Great in sand
- Penetrates sand
- holds more effectively in sand
So much for the experts!
Now, after reading all of these comments about the best and worst in plow anchors, I may be better off getting a slip at the local marina.
My quick interpertation of these results. A plow appears to work well in sand and mud bottoms;everything else is a crap shoot!
The Lewmar CQR and Delta Anchors are available in galvanized or stainless steel. The CQR is available in sizes from 9 pounds (4 kg) to 700 pounds (318 kg.) The CQR manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloaded here.
The Claw Anchors
The "Bruce"
The original Bruce Anchor has not been produced for the small boat market since 2007. The Bruce Anchor Group has returned to its roots of producing only large scale commercial mooring systems. After Bruce left the small anchor market, a number of other manufacturers have come forward to fill the void with the Lewmar Company probably being the most well known of the current manufacturers of the claw style anchor.
Originally designed in the early 1970s by Peter Bruce, the design was based on his other large-scale commercial anchors for fixed installations such as oil rigs and drilling platforms. The original Bruce Anchor and its copies have garnered a large following among boaters.
Due to its simple construction, the claw anchor is relatively inexpensive when compared to other styles of anchors. Being the shape of an open claw, the design intent was to allow the anchor to tip in any direction when it reaches the bottom and still be able to set properly.
As for sizing, currently Lewmar is producing the claw anchor in weights up to 176 pounds (80 kg.) An anchor roller platform is almost a must have item to conveniently stow and have the anchor available for immediate use.
The Major Players
In this case there is only one major player available now that the Bruce Anchor Group has gotten out of the market. The Lewmar Compnay headquartered in the United Kingdom with offices in Europe and the United States is now probably the premier maker of the claw anchor. Compare Pricing on Claw Anchors
Setting aside any shortcomings of the anchor design itself, the Lewmar name generally equates to a quality product.
The Pro’s and Con’s
After researching the pro’s and con’s of the plow anchor earlier, I’m sorry, but I had to see what the experts had to say about the Claw style anchor too. Amazingly enough, the views were not as divergent as those of the plow anchor. I did come across one very insightful statement in regards to the claw anchor that I felt honor bound to pass on and I quote:
"Moreover, the claw does not set particularly well in harder seabeds if the anchor lands upside-down."
Alrightyyyyyyy then, moving on . . .!
Pro’s
- Stows easily on a bow roller
- High–strength one–piece design
- Sets quickly and reliably in most bottom types and resets well.
- works well in mud, sand and rocky bottoms
- works well in silt bottoms, may hold in rock
- Roll stabilized
- Inexpensive
- a reputation for not breaking out during wind/tide changes
- designed to withstand change of direction and pull, once the anchor is set, over a range of 360 degrees
- perform relatively well on short scopes and set fairly reliably
- The Bruce anchor is designed to right itself, no matter how it lands on the bottom
Con’s
- Awkward one piece design can make it difficult to stow without an anchor roller platform or chocks for deck storage
- Limited holding power in mud or soft sand
- Claw types have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass
- The claw anchors configuration tends to act as a trap for rocks and boulders, and other undersea obstacles
- do not perform particularly well in terms of holding power
- Fairly low holding-power-to-weight ratio, and generally have to be oversized to compete with other types
- The bluntness of the penetrating portions of the claw anchor affects its ability to set in hard sand and clay
- Has a bad reputation for becoming fouled on u/w obstructions
The Lewmar Claw is available in galvanized or stainless steel, in sizes from 2.2 pounds (1 kg) to 176 pounds (80 kg.) The Claw manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloaded here.
Anchors - The New Generation
Scoop and Spade Anchors
There is a lot of disagreement over when the new generation of anchors was born. Was it the CQR of the mid 1930s or the Bügel Anchor developed in the mid 1980’s that fathered in the new era? Even when considering the shortcomings of the CQR anchor, many consider Geoffrey Taylor to be the father of modern anchor design with his revolutionary concept of the plow anchor. Shortly after that, Richard Danforth came out with the Lightweight Anchor, more commonly known as the Danforth.
Another 50 years would pass before the Bügel would be developed followed by a spate of other new anchor designs that would hit the market, with a good many of them being far superior to most of their predecessors.
With few exceptions such as the plow and maybe the Bügel, most of the new anchor designs would probably be better classified as scoop anchors. All seeming to exhibit the "single concave fluke" design.
So here is a short list of the more common new generation anchors out there today:
The Bügel Anchor
Also known as the Wasi, the Bügel Anchor was developed in Germany by Rolf Kaczirek. The Bügel, which has been around for quite awhile now, was a radical departure from conventional anchors of the day and provided us with our first glimpse of the future of anchor design.
The Bügel offers a single delta shaped, flat, sharply pointed fluke with a roll bar. The roll bar aids the anchor in attaining the correct position for setting and the sharply pointed tip allows it to penetrate most bottoms.
Pro’s
- Simple design inexpensive
- Reportedly good performance in a wide range of Bottoms.
Con’s
- Roll bar, however light, moves weight away from the tip.
- Flat blade does not offer the holding power of a concave blade
Bügel Anchors are available in galvanized or stainless steel, in sizes from 13 pounds (6 kg) to 132 pounds (60 kg.) The Bügel manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloaded here.
The Spade Anchor
Developed by Alain Poiraud of France, the Spade Anchor design was the first anchor to incorporate the concave single fluke. This simple design change increased holding power substantially especially in mud and other soft bottoms. It uses a hollow shank and a ballast chamber typically filled with lead to increase weight at the tip. This additional ballast is used both to aid in proper orientation once on the bottom and in penetrating the bottom during setting.
The most common complaint heard with the Spade and most other scoop type anchors is that they set so well and bury so deeply that it is sometimes difficult to break them out when ready to get underway.
Pro’s
- Reported good performance in a wide range of bottom types
- Fits most conventional bow rollers
- Can be disassembled for stowage
Con’s
- Expensive to manufacture; leading to a higher street price than some other types of anchors
- Fluke surface area tends to be smaller than some other weight matched scoop type anchors.
Spade Anchors are available in galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel, in sizes from 6 pounds (2.7 kg) to 243 pounds (110 kg.) The Spade manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed ordownloaded here.
The Rocna Anchor
Developed by Peter Smith of New Zealand in the mid to late 1990s, the Rocna quickly gained in popularity to become one of the major players in anchors today. From appearances, Rocna has taken the best design elements of the Bügel and Spade anchors and crafted them into their own design.
Whether through the company’s good marketing or through the boat owner who has one hung on their bow and swears by its capabilities, the Rocna Anchor is fast becoming the anchor of choice for a great many cruising sailors. Compare Prices on Rocna Anchors 
Pro’s
- Concave shaped Blade
- Fits most conventional bow rollers
- Good surface area
Con’s
- Roll bar, however light, moves weight away from the tip.
Rocna Anchors are available in galvanized or stainless steel, in sizes from 9 pounds (4 kg) to 606 pounds (275 kg.) The Rocna manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloaded here.
The Manson Supreme Anchor
The Manson Supreme is produced by Manson Anchors of New Zealand. Founded in 1972, Manson Anchors quickly became a world recognized manufacturer of anchors for both the recreational and commercial markets. The Manson Supreme is also approved by Lloyd’s as a super High Holding Power Anchor.
Pro’s
- Concave shaped Blade
- Fits most conventional bow rollers
- Good surface area
Con’s
- Roll bar, however light, moves weight away from the tip.
The Manson Supreme is available in galvanized or stainless steel, in sizes from 5 pounds (2.3 kg) to 225 pounds (102.3 kg.) The Manson manufacturer’s specifications and sizing chart can viewed or downloadedhere.
Anchors - Making The Right Choice
How to Choose the Right Anchor
So, how do you make the right choice when it comes to selecting the anchor design that is right for you? As you have probably noticed from the preceding pages, it’s not quite as easy as you may have first thought and your research options are somewhat limited.
You can read the manufacturers claims (they are trying to sell you something), talk with other boaters (remembering that, with rare exception, human nature is to defend even poor decision making), or consider the independent testing results (probably the best of the lot, but realize, most everyone has an agenda.)
What is it that you need to look for in any anchor?
- “Holding Power.” This above all else is the most important criteria in the selection of an anchor, or the “bottom line,” if you will allow me the humor.
- “Set Quickly and Reliably.” A close second in the terms of anchor requirements, is the ability to set quickly and reliably and then reset in the same fashion if the anchor happens to breakout.
Everything else, while important, is far down the list from these items. Presuming no catastrophic failure of any part of your ground tackle, these are the 2 things that will keep you and your boat off the beach when everything else around you is going to hell.
Matching the Anchor to Your Boating Style
Whether you have a daysailer or a bluewater passagemaker, the anchor selection process begins with knowing the bottom types you expect to encounter. While having a selection of anchors on board for every conceivable bottom type is the perfect solution, space considerations, your budget, or both, typically means a compromise will have to be made. On the plus side, with the newer generation of anchors, your compromise may not have to be as severe as it was 40 years ago when all you had to choose from was a danforth or a plow.
The #1 Anchor Rule
“Choose an anchor design matched to the bottom conditions that you expect.”
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